We had another itinerary from the dark side that eventually lead to enlightenment so of course, all the walking was worth it. Guys. We had a great day. Okay, so we missed seeing the graves of Michelangelo and Dante and Galileo when we were by Santa Croce but we freaking saw Galileo's finger so I'm not going to beat myself up about it. Also, I'd like to say right now that any spelling mistakes on this blog now or otherwise are the results of this keyboard that I've borrowed from Jenny and of having no time to do spell check. Just so you know.
So, the day. We started with breakfast at Hotel Crocini. We had a restful night but still were not jumping out of bed like small children...death march yesterday, don't forget...it was more like the middle aged women we are...but we made a good start and left the hotel around 8:45. We headed over to the Borgello Museum to see the sculpture. We didn't spend too much time there but were particularly happy to see the Donnatello David and St. George. (it is SOOO beautiful outside our windows...I keep getting distracted...and we don't have window seats so I can't really spend the time taking pictures anyway). One thing I noticed at this museum that wasn't present at other's was the presence of art students sketching the sculptures. They were everywhere. We didn't see them as much in other museums. The museum itself dates from the Middle Ages and used to be the police headquarters of Florence. It absolutely looks like a Medieval castle with turrets, a central courtyard and battlements surrounding the top. We saw a good looking little guy in chaps and a belt with a tiny tail that reminded us of the Haynes boys. Google "Donnatello's Assless Chaps" (sorry Rachel) for an explanation of this sculpture.
It is now 11:45 PM in Roma. We are here now as I type this. As you know, I am drunk (not my fault...Italian men keep giving me alcohol). So here goes...the rest of today.
After the Bargello, we headed over to the Galileo Museum where we got to see so many maps and mathematical instruments and dead fingers of Galileo that my head was spinning (along with the many models of the earth and the sky). Of note was the map of the world that was explained to us as being "before the discovery" (thanks. we got this.) by a very nice French man and the experiment showing that a marble on a curve will reach its destination faster than a marble on a straight. Still with me? Me neither. Anyway, it was great. We headed to Santa Croche (I won't tell you what Mama Mia referred to it as at dinner) and on the way stopped in a darling paper shop that I think sorella mia also visited while here and that paper shop was great for getting little gifties for people back at home. Mama mia bought me an Alice in wonderland thingy for me for my birthday. :)
A birthday pastry/coffee/chocolate stop was way overdue and so, we pulled the bus over (that's just me and mama mia actually) and stopped at a lovely little place by the Arno to have our break. Cafe San Firenze was lovely and guys! A man with an accordion was strolling by trying to earn a euro and what do you think happened? He played happy birthday to me! It was fantastic! Also we both had two pastries each which was a real celebration, let me tell you.
We crossed the Ponte Vecchio (glittery jewelry all around) and headed to the Medici Pitti Palace where we had a debate: Palace / Garden / Palace / Garde? Which should it be? Eventually the Palace won out which was a good thing because it started to rain. And guys! The freaking palace was absolutely amazing and you won't believe what we saw!!! Ferdinando Medici was the son of Cosimo and he was a great collector of art including two pictures of Judith with the Head of Holofernus by Allori (this is my favorite topic ever in a painting) and the campanion piece to Judith Slaying Holoferus...Judith and her Maid Servant! By Gentileschi! Can you believe it? This palace is such a big deal, they even had a bathroom for Napolean. I mean, the little guy was probably naked in the same room where I was standing! I can't say enough about the ceilings. Each one was created for the express purpose of saying to visitors "I'm Mr. Medici. I'm a big deal." And everyone knew it. The ceilings with relief sculpture and paintings of gods, goddesses, God, and everyone else important at the time do not lie. They don't. Medici was a big deal. Yeah.
Post Palazzo, we went on a hunt for the Brancacci Chapel. This was something I had read about and something that I had wanted to do for my birthday. We had heard that we needed a reservation to see this, but luckily, it was not busy at all and they let us right in. This chapel is famous for its frescoes and is sometimes referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the early Renaissance. Masaccio is particularly known for his portrayal of Adam and Eve post apple. The realism depicted in these frescoes was unprecedented and these frescoes were very influential and ushered in the Renaissance. Since we weren't sure that we would get in, we were so excited to get in and see them and were even allowed to take photos! Yes!
As a particular birthday treat, on our way to the Chapel, you'll never guess what we ran across but a Biblioteca Comunale - Pietro Thouar branch to be exact. It was too small, under funded to the naked eye, and there was a hand written sign saying that their Internet didn't work today. Ah libraries. We fight the same battles in every country.
We also managed a quick stroll through Piazza Santa Spirito, thought to be one of the more authentic spots in Florence (and that's exactly what we said when walking through it...but we didn't know we were doing it at the time) and this amazing church that looks like a log cabin on crack but I can't figure out which one it is and I've been looking online forever and I'm going to mass a the Vatican in like 4 hours or something and I really must get to bed.
Rest of the evening:
1. Train ride to Roma. No worries. Brand new train. Good time. Beautiful scenery as detailed above.
2. Took about 45 minutes to walk to the Yes! Hotel. Those of you who have been here know what that means.
3. BEAUTIFUL birthday dinner with kisses on the cheek and free limoncello and a cake baked by someone's mother and a candle and then mom and I walked home drunk singing Leaving on a Jet Plane...I tried to sing her Pulp but she wasn't buying that at all.
Yes! Hotel is great and we already feel at home.
Roma passes have been bought. We tackle public transit tomorrow and the Vatican! I have an egg for Fr. Martin who is saying mass tomorrow and I hope I can stay awake because it would be sort of embarrassing to fall asleep during mass at the Vatican.
My birthday is officially over in Italy, but I have 6 more hours in the States. Ah well. Mom's been asleep for over an hour. Good night guys! Roma tomorrow!
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